Birch View Motor Lodge to Zeta Pass

This adventure has tested Forest and me quite a bit. I am not used to handling stress without my wife being there to help, especially when my body and mind are both worn and battered. Tuesday night we stayed at the Birch View Motor Lodge in Shelburne, NH. I have to say that it was the most organized, put-together, hassle-free place I've stayed at so far. The owners, Carole and Dave, treated me like family. They have 3 dogs of their own, but out of respect for Forest as a service dog, they kept their dogs inside or leashed just for me. They picked us up at the trailhead Tuesday afternoon, picked up 2 of my 3 resupply packages (1 hadn't arrived yet, so I had to stop yesterday morning to pick it up) and had them waiting for me, gave us rides to and from town, and took us back to the trailhead yesterday morning. I can't thank them enough for their hospitality and support at a time when I really needed to be stress-free. If you ever happen to go through Shelburne, NH, be sure to stop at the Birch View Motor Lodge and tell them Forest Fisher sent you.

After we picked up my third package (which contained the loaner tarp from Hammock Gear) yesterday, Carole and Dave dropped us off at the trailhead a little before noon. Ahead of us was the toughest 120 miles on the trail. Of course, as soon as we set out, we began to hear thunder. Per the Appalachian Trail Conservancy website, "New Hampshire features more miles above treeline than any other Trail state. This provides exposed ridges with amazing views when the sun is shining, as well as the worst weather in the world when storms hit. Special regulations govern the White Mountains due to the fragile nature of the alpine tundra as well as the danger that exposed areas pose to hikers. The mountains are very steep here, and you need to be in seriously good shape with strong knees before tackling them." In the 161 miles of Trail in New Hampshire, the elevation ranges from 400 feet to 6,288 feet.

We left the trailhead and walked south, parallel to the Rattle River, toward the Carter Moriah Range of the White Mountains. The Trail followed an old road bed, so it was just a nice walk in the woods. There were a couple of water crossings, but they weren't too bad. In 2 miles we passed the Rattle River Shelter. The Trail past the shelter was a mix of forest and and several more stream crossings, one that took us across large rocks. Nothing Forest and I couldn't handle. Then the Trail began to climb toward Mount Moriah, and we decided to set up camp for the night at the next water source.

This morning I felt a little stronger and in better spirits. The Trail continued its steep rise as we climbed up Middle Moriah Mountain, descended into the gap and then rose again. We climbed two long sections of rock stairs and walked across bog bridges toward the summit of Mount Moriah (elevation 4,049 feet). My first summit of the New Hampshire White Mountains. We took a break and then hiked back down Mount Moriah and past the Imp Shelter, where we stopped to collect water and take a short break. Then, we continued toward North Carter Mountain, with more bog bridges. Our goal for the day was to climb North Carter, Middle Carter and South Carter Mountains and camp for the night at Zeta Pass. North Carter was steep, but Middle Carter and South Carter would be easier. We'd be stealth camping at Zeta Pass, but at least there should be water there.